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I've recently Texas Rigged almost all my decoys and thought I would share the process. Sorry for the crappy photos, I need a real camera.

Supplies I used.
400 monofilament fishing line.
2.2mm double barrel crimps.
Crimp tool.
Some kind of weight, I am using egg sinkers here but you can re-use old strap weights also.



1. First thing you're gonna need to do it cut a piece of monofilament to your desired length, I like mine at 5ft.



2. Now we're going to make a loop so you can hold the decoys on a carabiner. Choose a working end of the monofilament and slide one of the double barrel crimps over it leaving about 6 inches of line to work with.



3. Next with the 6 inches you're working with make a loop about the size of a quarter.



4. Now take the working end and loop it back into the loop already made. Do this two times to come completely back around.



5. As you guessed the next step is to feed the working in into and crimp the first double barrel crimp. Locking your loop now.





6. Now take the other working end and feed it through a hole on the decoy.



7. Take the bare end now and feed another double barrel crimp on then whatever weight you're using after that.



8. Now take the working end of the monofilament and loop it back around the weight and feed into the crimp and you guessed it, crimp it shut.



We now have a completed Texas Rig.



I can do a dozen decoys in about 30 min taking my time. All my supplies were bought here. http://www.snlcorp.com/SNL/Other/DuckDecoyKit.aspx

I keep talking about doing this with some of my dekes, about how much did it cost ya per dozen?

I think it came down to around $14 per dozen. The kit I got came with enough line to do 26
dozen at 5ft each haha. I don't have anywhere near that many.

The egg weights were where the real money was. I'll re use old strap weights in the future.

Sent from your honey hole.

i tried it with about half my puddle duck decoys, liked it so much i did the rest of them. but it wouldn't work on my divers because i need to much line.

3legged_lab wrote:I keep talking about doing this with some of my dekes, about how much did it cost ya per dozen?

I like using tanglefree over the mono since I still use bags. With the mono I can't find clips that will hold the weight in place so the weights all tangle.

I did this last year as well, and am a HUGE fan.

I've been thinking about trying to rig some of mine up with these. We have a couple spots we hunt quite a bit that is only 3-4ft and I think these would work good there. Thanks for the info, I will give it a try.

OK so I finally pulled the trigger on changing over my decoys. I ordered an egg sinker mold from Do-it, and the 550 yard 400lb mono kit from SNL corp. The cost of the mold was only 8 buck more than 40 egg sinkers, plus I have plenty of lead so the mold should pay for itself quickly. With the kit from SNL I should be able to rig every decoy I have plus all I will get for a long time to come.

I'll report back after I get to try them out.

I'm not sure what is easier- setting or picking up. They're both so much better with this rig.

A word of caution- when going from standard line and strap weights to these, be careful. The first one I uncoupled and slung out went damn year 30 yards. I was used to the traditional two handed, "please don't let the line loop the head, half-ass sidearm toss. With this, the weight being up against the keel, and me swinging the loop made that thing fly like some rogue Argentinian bolo, screaming across the gut I was hunting into the reeds on the other side. I was so dumbfounded by the ease with which this happened that I didn't even cuss.

Ya, I've been thinking about changing over for the last couple years, just always found something else to spend the money on. My two big reasons are: I hate wrapping weights around the neck or trying to get them to line up to wrap on the keel, and getting my hands wet at pickup time.

Line and crimps showed up Monday, and the egg mold got here today. I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

Oh, hey Olly. Does that fancy Coast Guard knot help to make the top loop stay open better, or is it just for looks?

3legged_lab wrote:Oh, hey Olly. Does that fancy Coast Guard knot help to make the top loop stay open better, or is it just for looks?

I did it for strength. Instead of having just a simple loop that might crease or even break.

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Olly wrote:

3legged_lab wrote:Oh, hey Olly. Does that fancy Coast Guard knot help to make the top loop stay open better, or is it just for looks?

I did it for strength. Instead of having just a simple loop that might crease or even break.

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I'm gonna use your knot. For a test I slipped the line through one of the crimps, made a loop, then back through the crimp. Then did it your way. The first one was sort of tear drop shaped, and the latter was almost a circle. I think it will make it easier to clip on the biner while cleaning up.

Olly wrote:or even break.

maybe fighting the gator in the pic(waterfowl pic forum) to get your decoy back

I have found that the 4 oz torpedo weights worked best for my Texas rigs. I have to say, once you use them there is no going back.

They are very, very, very easy to like.

Tomkat wrote:I have found that the 4 oz torpedo weights worked best for my Texas rigs. I have to say, once you use them there is no going back.

Picture or a link for these please.

I just finished up casting 66 - 8oz eggs, and 133 - 6oz eggs.

Had I bought all of this through SNL (or probably any other fishing website) it would have cost me $248 + $85.15 s/h for slightly less lead than I poured, for a total of $333.15.

Not counting my time (what else did I have to do today?) I'm in it at $38 for my mold, and about 3 bucks in propane - I get my lead for free. Not a bad do it yourself for the day, saved myself $292.15.

I love stories like that Seriously, watch out the first time you throw one- those sonsabitches sail easy!

if you need more than a couple dozen weights, it's definitely worth pouring your own

You guys kill me with your free lead. I've been all over this communist place, and the Maryland EPA regulates the disposal of lead so heavily that not only does nobody give it away, I can't even buy it from them. I've offered $20 for an gallon bucket, and got no takers. They all act like I'm some undercover agent for the state. I hate this place.

I do scrounge quite a bit from the the bulkheads that tourists crab from. They buy those stupid little triangles with about a 2 oz egg sinker attached to hook their chicken necks on (which only make it much, much harder to crab), use them for the day, and then leave them laying there. I can usually get about 5 of those per spot.

I need to get me some molds, I have an endless supply of wheel weights.

assateague wrote:You guys kill me with your free lead. I've been all over this communist place, and the Maryland EPA regulates the disposal of lead so heavily that not only does nobody give it away, I can't even buy it from them.

My brother and I have a hook-up at the scrap yard. He gives us a bunch of good soft lead, and in return he gets some big jig heads for the ocean. When we do have to buy it, it costs us around .40/lb.

i have never bought lead. i started "collecting" it for decoy weights when i was probably 11-12. i would cut it off old haul nets that weren't being used anymore

Tomkat wrote:I have found that the 4 oz torpedo weights worked best for my Texas rigs. I have to say, once you use them there is no going back.

So true Just rigged up another dozen deeks tonight.

EGG WEIGHTS = Tangles

Torpedo shaped weights = NO TANGLES

Texas rig is the only way to go.

Tomkat wrote:EGG WEIGHTS = Tangles

Torpedo shaped weights = NO TANGLES

Texas rig is the only way to go.

Aren't eggs sorta the same as a torpedo shape....

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Nope different types of weights. As far as tangles vs no tangles on the two I have not a clue.

I prefer the mushroom weights.