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This argument is ridiculous(large bold ala TK's language), everybody knows its not the weight that causes the tangle - its the line. Its gonna be nearly impossible to get a tangle in that 400 lb mono, now that limp-noodle Tanglefree brand line that comes in the kit with the torpedo weights is another story.

3legged_lab wrote:This argument is ridiculous(large bold ala TK's language), everybody knows its not the weight that causes the tangle - its the line. Its gonna be nearly impossible to get a tangle in that 400 lb mono, now that limp-noodle Tanglefree brand line that comes in the kit with the torpedo weights is another story.

NO! ITS THE WEIGHT THAT CAUSES THE TANGLE, NOT THE LINE!

MuddyWaterWarlock wrote:

3legged_lab wrote:This argument is ridiculous(large bold ala TK's language), everybody knows its not the weight that causes the tangle - its the line. Its gonna be nearly impossible to get a tangle in that 400 lb mono, now that limp-noodle Tanglefree brand line that comes in the kit with the torpedo weights is another story.

NO! ITS THE WEIGHT THAT CAUSES THE TANGLE, NOT THE LINE!

I'm going to have to side with 3leg on this one. I have used both and the 400lb mono is what is going to stop a tangle. It's also the same reason why you cannot wrap 400lb mono up like you can the tanglefree line.

Olly wrote:

MuddyWaterWarlock wrote:

3legged_lab wrote:This argument is ridiculous(large bold ala TK's language), everybody knows its not the weight that causes the tangle - its the line. Its gonna be nearly impossible to get a tangle in that 400 lb mono, now that limp-noodle Tanglefree brand line that comes in the kit with the torpedo weights is another story.

NO! ITS THE WEIGHT THAT CAUSES THE TANGLE, NOT THE LINE!

I'm going to have to side with 3leg on this one. I have used both and the 400lb mono is what is going to stop a tangle. It's also the same reason why you cannot wrap 400lb mono up like you can the tanglefree line.

Good Ole Boys stick together!

This is the 'Good Ole Boys' club.

Tangle free line sucks. Replaced all our blocks with 400 mono two years ago, amazing how much better it is. The best weights are ten pounds an you use two for every 12-18 decoys

Old brake rotors work well, I'd imagine. That's what I use for crab trot lines.

assateague wrote:Old brake rotors work well, I'd imagine. That's what I use for crab trot lines.

old window sash weights are money, can drag em around and they don't snag

jehler wrote:

assateague wrote:Old brake rotors work well, I'd imagine. That's what I use for crab trot lines.

old window sash weights are money, can drag em around and they don't snag

We hunt in current and the window sash weights only work for the tailend in those conditions. I've seen people drill holes and add a rod through them to keep them from rolling.
On the lower river here, where the divers want to be is where the clams are. That means sandy bottom in most places.

QH's Paw wrote:

jehler wrote:

assateague wrote:Old brake rotors work well, I'd imagine. That's what I use for crab trot lines.

old window sash weights are money, can drag em around and they don't snag

We hunt in current and the window sash weights only work for the tailend in those conditions. I've seen people drill holes and add a rod through them to keep them from rolling.
On the lower river here, where the divers want to be is where the clams are. That means sandy bottom in most places.

we only use em on the down wind also. we have grapples and others types, jguns homade mushroom anchors are the best on the upwind

3legged_lab wrote:This argument is ridiculous(large bold ala TK's language), everybody knows its not the weight that causes the tangle - its the line. Its gonna be nearly impossible to get a tangle in that 400 lb mono, now that limp-noodle Tanglefree brand line that comes in the kit with the torpedo weights is another story.

x2 i have 8 ounce mushroom weights on my texas rigs and 3-4 feet of 400 mono with no problems.

I just received some 400lb mono line to do this, but I have a couple questions. Where is the best place to purchase to weights? Also, if I go with the egg weights is it better to let them slide on the line or wrap the line around and crimp it in place? I have seen it done both ways and wanted to see what you guys thought worked best.

huntntech wrote:I just received some 400lb mono line to do this, but I have a couple questions. Where is the best place to purchase to weights? Also, if I go with the egg weights is it better to let them slide on the line or wrap the line around and crimp it in place? I have seen it done both ways and wanted to see what you guys thought worked best.

The weights are expensive so I bought the mold and poured my own. Its way cheaper. I wrapped the lines around the weights and crimped the way Olly showed and have been perfectly happy with them that way. I really see no reason for the weight to be able to slide on the line, the only thing that matters is that the decoy can slide on it.

I am only doing 2 dozen this way, so I didnt know if it would be worth it for me to buy a mold and pour my own. I suppose if I buy a mold I will always have it for future use if need be, and would probably spend about the same on it as I would the weights. Thanks 3leg. If I remeber correctly didn't you say that you bought the mold off Ebay?

huntntech wrote:I am only doing 2 dozen this way, so I didnt know if it would be worth it for me to buy a mold and pour my own. I suppose if I buy a mold I will always have it for future use if need be, and would probably spend about the same on it as I would the weights. Thanks 3leg. If I remeber correctly didn't you say that you bought the mold off Ebay?

Ya, I think it was about 30 bucks shipped. At only needing 24 you may not break even pouring them yourself.

I changed over to the Texas rig this year and I set and pick up in half the amount of time. I've got around 6 dozen decoys and right now I have about 2 dozen Texas rigged and each month I Texas Rig another dozen. I'm also in the process of painting my mallard decoys to redheads since I have chingos of redheads down here but no mallards.

jarbo03 wrote:I need to get me some molds, I have an endless supply of wheel weights.

I'm a freaking idiot, I didn't even think to ask you about wheel weights, but we need to have a lead melting party. I have a few molds and hot pots in the garage.

huntntech wrote:I just received some 400lb mono line to do this, but I have a couple questions. Where is the best place to purchase to weights? Also, if I go with the egg weights is it better to let them slide on the line or wrap the line around and crimp it in place? I have seen it done both ways and wanted to see what you guys thought worked best.

Look for the 4 oz egg weights on ebay...They're about 0.56 cents a piece and www.snlcorp.com is hard to beat for mono line.

goodkarmarising wrote:

jarbo03 wrote:I need to get me some molds, I have an endless supply of wheel weights.

I'm a freaking idiot, I didn't even think to ask you about wheel weights, but we need to have a lead melting party. I have a few molds and hot pots in the garage.

Sounds like a good reason to drink some beer also.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes it does.

I have a lot of Texas rigged decoys. Used several flavors of weights. Here is how I deal with tangling.

If you are not winding up the strings...only keep about 12 in a bundle or they'll start tangling.
If you have multiple strands and caribeeners...that tangles too.

I haul 3 dozen or more and have to put them in a bag. I'll get the weight up by the decoy and wind it up and toss into the bag.
There's a reason.

The next day when I un-wrap them. I'll leave the weight by the decoy when I toss it. My decoys are un-weighted keels.
That way when the decoy hits the water the weight flips the decoy right-side-up. Then slides down the string. Less work and fuss.


5-foot strings wrap and unwrap pretty quickly and I've been doing it since the 70's.
Tangle-free line is a happy thing in my book.
Texas rigs are too.

I hate that black string I used to use.

I never wrap mine. I get a dozen or so on a carabiner, and tie an overhand knot, looped three times "through the hole", and toss them in the bag. Never had a tangle, and the mono stays pretty straight. Easiest way to put them out is to grab the decoy and pull it out of the lines, not grab the loop and try to pull the decoy out. I see people do this and get frustrated, spinning the decoys around to try and follow a line down from the loop. Screw that- grab a decoy, and the line will come right out of the pile.

Thats what I do with my Texas rigged decoys. Unclip, drop, and then pick up the decoy I want to set out. It will almost always tangle if you try and pull them out by the loops.

Mine are on 400lb mono, 12-24 decoys per bundle. Make my bundles by tying an overhand knot in the mono. No bags and no tangles.

Exactly what I do. I put them in the bag only when I walk in, because they make a hell of a racket if I don't.

I've done the same thing...tie an overhand knot with a loop in it to carry it by. That works well but then someone tries to help...says something about there being a "crazy knot" and messes up the thing. That's why I'm such a Nazi when it comes to this stuff. Don't mess with ma decoys.

I currently have 20 dz dekes rigged Texas style. Here is a little tip to keep them from tangling. Either use zip ties or small thin pieces of wire to hold the bunches of string together when storing or transporting the dekes. You then have to take this off when you start to throw out the dekes. It is a small hassle to mess with, but there are no tangles. I rig up 18 dekes in each bunch and throw out all 18 in one chunk. I then re-arrange them individually. When storing the dekes during the summer or between hunts, I hang them from hooks and let them hang straight. To help with carrying dekes in and out of the field tie a thick cord to the caribener. You can tie two cords together or tie them to a pole. If done correctly, you can get 4 bundles of 18 dekes (6dz dekes) hauled in one load. Try it, you will like it.

Wait, how do you keep them from tangling in the air as you throw the bunch? Although I guess if you're going out to adjust them individually it doesn't matter too much if the line is looped over a head here or there.

6Bands wrote:I currently have 20 dz dekes rigged Texas style. Here is a little tip to keep them from tangling. Either use zip ties or small thin pieces of wire to hold the bunches of string together when storing or transporting the dekes. You then have to take this off when you start to throw out the dekes. It is a small hassle to mess with, but there are no tangles. I rig up 18 dekes in each bunch and throw out all 18 in one chunk. I then re-arrange them individually. When storing the dekes during the summer or between hunts, I hang them from hooks and let them hang straight. Try it, you will like it.

I use 400# mono. Bunch them up anywhere from 12-24 dekes and tie the mono lines together with an overhand knot. I've had em this way for years and no tangle problems.

When I chunk the whole bunch of 18 they come untangled, thats why I throw them in one heave. I then pick up each deke to make sure it is sitting upright and placed where I want it. When mastered, you can use this technique to get out massive amounts of dekes in very little time. Good luck.