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I was reading above and see 3/4 plywood was used for the trannsom and bulkhead. The plans I have call for 1/4in.Im assuming 3/4 would only be needed if u were adding a motor, which I am not.Need it as light as possible to get where Im going with it. Long Hike

I would use 3/4", just because it's easier to screw to when building. Yes, the screws get backed out before glassing, but you're going to have to put a nailer of some sort in the bulkhead, to fasten the hood to, anyway, and you'll want some sort of handles on the transom for pulling/loading/unloading, and 1/4" wouldn't do much for that. Just my opinion.

I think using 3/4 instead of 1/4 would only add a pound or 2. Those pieces aren't that big.

Thanks Guys, that makes sense.Hopefully I can get started on this real soon.

Stoeger I will add one more piece of advice. A really good way to see what the build will be is to build a model. Nothing extravagant, cardboard, poster board or whatever. Something around 1/4 scale and you will see things you'll want to change or incorporate into your build and questions will come up you can het answered while not in the actual build.

That's what I did- I cut mine out of Manila folders, and was very surprised at how much the wood behaved exactly like the Manila model. The model is definitely the way to go.

What type seat did you guys use if you dont mind me asking..

I have a piece of 3/8" plywood with a cleat screwed on the back. I leaned it in the back of the boat with me sitting/leaning on it until I got the angle I wanted. Then I marked the back where it hit the cockpit, and put a cleat there to keep it from sliding down into the boat.

Don't get too fancy- with all your hunting clothes on, it's pretty comfy without much extra. I do have a camping sleep pad that I roll out on the bottom first.

Jim, how did you address a drain plug? I am going to build a modified lake erie style boat to use as sort of a towable floating layout blind. I will be in and out of it so water in the boat will need to be dealt with. Also when you glassed your seams did you do any sort of step tabbing? I.e. laying down a 4" wide mat as a first course and a 6" wide mat as a 2nd course?

I didn't put a drain plug in. Even with splashing in and getting in and out of the boat in waders, I usually have less than one towel of water in the boat when I get home. Just throw in a dry towel, move it around and sop up the water, wring it out and repeat. Never had to wring more than once, and a drain plug is just one more thing to forget.

As for the seams, there are two 4" pieces of tape inside, each overlapping the seam about an inch (so one overlaps the other about 2"). Then the outside seams have the same thing. The interior and exterior are glassed also, with a little seam overlap, so there's really 6 layers of glass over every seam. This was it's third year, of pretty nasty abuse/dragging through marsh and across clam shells, and fishing in the summer, and it's still good as new.

I used 4oz cloth, not mat, though.

Thanks. I'm working on some design work on mine now. Here is what I've got. 4x8, although it would probably end up getting stretched to 10' for more foot room. Dashed lines are interior bulkheads. 4 squares= 1'

Definitely build a model first, with thin cardboard, poster board, something like that. I'm glad I did- it was very helpful. The luaun acted exactly like the cardboard did.

Got a question.
On the seams at the chine you put 2 layers of 4" on the inside and 2 layers on the outside before you put on the full layer of cloth correct?
Did you do the same at the shear when you put the ducks on? Or did you just put the 4" on the outside of the seam?

NuffDaddy wrote:Got a question.
On the seams at the chine you put 2 layers of 4" on the inside and 2 layers on the outside before you put on the full layer of cloth correct?
Did you do the same at the shear when you put the ducks on? Or did you just put the 4" on the outside of the seam?

On mine I did 2 strips offset of each other inside and out, on the forward frame and the transom.
If I remember correctly the plan called for doing the tape then glossing over that. PITA later after I'd built mine I think MissedAgain was recommending glass first then taping. Far easier, not near the hassle with getting the glass to lay smooth. That's how I will do my next one. Plus I will use a filleting compound rather than the construction sealer.

That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

assateague wrote:That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

So everywhere there was a seam, there is 2 layers if tape on the inside and 2 on the outside. Plus the cloth over that?

assateague wrote:That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

Should be much easier to work the mud. Bondo is a bitch to sand down...

Feelin' Fowl wrote:

assateague wrote:That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

Should be much easier to work the mud. Bondo is a bitch to sand down...

Really? Just sand it before it hardens all the way. Smooths out real quick.

I'm no bondo champion, but the stuff I worked with ended up as hard as cement. I'm not sure how you sand something that hasn't hardened...

Either way, in the seams of a hybrid can be really tight, and awkward to work in. Anything is going to be tough to get to at times.

Feelin' Fowl wrote:I'm no bondo champion, but the stuff I worked with ended up as hard as cement. I'm not sure how you sand something that hasn't hardened...

Either way, in the seams of a hybrid can be really tight, and awkward to work in. Anything is going to be tough to get to at times.

Don't use barely any hardener. A pea size spot will harden up enough to fill the palm of your hand. Soon as it gets hard enough that you can't leave a finger imprint sand it down. We use it to fill all the voids on the boats before we epoxy coat.

I really need to get started in this though. Need to be done by the time the ice goes away.

Why do you want it done so soon?

Feelin' Fowl wrote:Why do you want it done so soon?

Won't have time this spring or summer. And I want it for next fall.

Got it. I thought you might have some kind of crazy bow fishing plans for it...

Feelin' Fowl wrote:Got it. I thought you might have some kind of crazy bow fishing plans for it...

:lol:
I'm sure some dead fish will find their way in it before long.

NuffDaddy wrote:

assateague wrote:That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

So everywhere there was a seam, there is 2 layers if tape on the inside and 2 on the outside. Plus the cloth over that?

Yep. The "main" cloth doesn't really overlap the seams, though, just ties in to the tape. There are too many different angles to get a solid sheet of cloth to lay smoothly if you try and drape it all the way down, and it'll be one a huge pain in the ass if you try. Ask me how I know.

assateague wrote:

NuffDaddy wrote:

assateague wrote:That's what I did, as well. The sewn edges of the tape are what makes the main glass a little harder to get flat, but I wasn't too picky. I used bondo over the initial bead of construction adhesive also, but next time I think I'm just going to use Sheetrock mud.

So everywhere there was a seam, there is 2 layers if tape on the inside and 2 on the outside. Plus the cloth over that?

Yep. The "main" cloth doesn't really overlap the seams, though, just ties in to the tape. There are too many different angles to get a solid sheet of cloth to lay smoothly if you try and drape it all the way down, and it'll be one a huge pain in the ass if you try. Ask me how I know.

Thanks.

NuffDaddy wrote:

Feelin' Fowl wrote:I'm no bondo champion, but the stuff I worked with ended up as hard as cement. I'm not sure how you sand something that hasn't hardened...

Either way, in the seams of a hybrid can be really tight, and awkward to work in. Anything is going to be tough to get to at times.

Don't use barely any hardener. A pea size spot will harden up enough to fill the palm of your hand. Soon as it gets hard enough that you can't leave a finger imprint sand it down. We use it to fill all the voids on the boats before we epoxy coat.

I wasted about a half a quart before I figured this out. I went light on the recommended hardener in the first batch, and that shit still set up in about 90 seconds, no exaggeration. That stuff is high dollar, too. Really, the glass gives it the strength, and the bondo, filler, whatever is only to provide a roll transition instead of a sharper inside corner for the glass. In which case, the Sheetrock mud should do fine for 1/50th the cost.

assateague wrote:

NuffDaddy wrote:

Feelin' Fowl wrote:I'm no bondo champion, but the stuff I worked with ended up as hard as cement. I'm not sure how you sand something that hasn't hardened...

Either way, in the seams of a hybrid can be really tight, and awkward to work in. Anything is going to be tough to get to at times.

Don't use barely any hardener. A pea size spot will harden up enough to fill the palm of your hand. Soon as it gets hard enough that you can't leave a finger imprint sand it down. We use it to fill all the voids on the boats before we epoxy coat.

I wasted about a half a quart before I figured this out. I went light on the recommended hardener in the first batch, and that shit still set up in about 90 seconds, no exaggeration. That stuff is high dollar, too. Really, the glass gives it the strength, and the bondo, filler, whatever is only to provide a roll transition instead of a sharper inside corner for the glass. In which case, the Sheetrock mud should do fine for 1/50th the cost.

I don't even know what the proper ratio is supposed to be, but even with a dot of hardener you get like 3min before it kicks.
I'll look into the mud for the one I'm going to do. I'm all about cutting cost.