Duck rigs

Duck boats and duck boat blinds!

Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:56 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:57 pm

hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:58 pm

I can still come up with mine about a inch.i usually run it to where when I'm planed out the water is barely above the water pickups.ive added cup to my prop and a cavitation plate
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:03 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:05 pm

hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup

Do you lose any top end when you do that?
It's a sinking feeling when another boat blazes past you on the way to your spot, all the while yore praying they set up somewhere else.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:06 pm

I think my transom is 15 it's a 86 model alweld.i can take pics of motor on boat if you want for reference but like I said I can still come up some but it does what I want.with just me by myself it runs 30 to 31 and 3 people and gear about 24 to 25.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:09 pm

I want a 16 foot boat cuz it would run so much better than the 14.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:13 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup

Do you lose any top end when you do that?
It's a sinking feeling when another boat blazes past you on the way to your spot, all the while yore praying they set up somewhere else.
If you pick it up too high you'll lose speed.theres a happy medium with that.same as with the cup.you gotta play with it till you get it where you want.i actually picked up a mile when I put cup in my prop.but if you don't use it in shallow water you really don't need cup but you'll gain top end and better hole shot if you get the motor out the water
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:14 pm

With that boat a 25 would be tits
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:17 pm

If you could get ur hands on a 25 two stroke tahatsu or 3 cylinder 25 yamaha 2 stroke.or a 2 stroke 25 Nissan even the 25 mercury 2 stroke.the mercury is the slower of them but will perform at its best on a 16 foot bateau
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:25 pm

hudson wrote:With that boat a 25 would be tits

I was looking for a 25 when I got my 15. But a friend gave me a good deal on it. I guess neither of us realized the motor had been smacked in the rear and broke the rubber mounts but a little 5200 is gonna fix that.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:26 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:With that boat a 25 would be tits

I was looking for a 25 when I got my 15. But a friend gave me a good deal on it. I guess neither of us realized the motor had been smacked in the rear and broke the rubber mounts but a little 5200 is gonna fix that.
i just saw that thread.ur motor is sitting on the transom? And is that an aluminum prop?
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:28 pm

hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:With that boat a 25 would be tits

I was looking for a 25 when I got my 15. But a friend gave me a good deal on it. I guess neither of us realized the motor had been smacked in the rear and broke the rubber mounts but a little 5200 is gonna fix that.
i just saw that thread.ur motor is sitting on the transom? And is that an aluminum prop?

Yeah I have a spacer I usually run under there but that's the whole thing about needing a jack plate or transom extender to get a few more inches.
The prop is aluminum but I think it's stock, no idea what size or pitch but its pretty ate up. Needs replacing.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby assateague » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:30 pm

Tohatsu and Nissan are the same thing. Aren't they?
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:31 pm

I get a ss prop and a jackplate to get the motor up and away from the boat.you do this and get it set and you'll kick yourself in the ass for not doin it sooner.wish you lived closer cuz my buddy could build you a jackplate and we could set it in and have it runnin right in a few hrs.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:34 pm

assateague wrote:Tohatsu and Nissan are the same thing. Aren't they?
Yap just like mer and mariner
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:35 pm

hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:36 pm

Idk why but the tahatsu 2 cylinder two strokes will smoke a 25 2 cylinder 2 stoke mercury.i wish mercury would have made a 3 cylinder 2 stroke 25 like yamaha.id have bought 3.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:36 pm

When you say try a cavitation plate what are you talking about? Those goofy plastic wing things?
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Flightstopper » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:37 pm

jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:40 pm

Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:41 pm

jehler wrote:When you say try a cavitation plate what are you talking about? Those goofy plastic wing things?
No mines made out of aluminum
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:44 pm

I'm not a fan of them
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:44 pm

Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
bingo and the plate will keep water in the prop but you might not need it.like I said you have to play around with it till you find where it's right
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:46 pm

jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Flightstopper » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:46 pm

jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower


If I could afford a motor newer than twice as old as I am then I'd start looking for horsepower. As close as I've ever been to the big boys is my 15 and I'm shitting in high cotton in my book. I'm used to small motors in shallows, I can't even imagine rigging that 200 whatever on the barge.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:47 pm

hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:48 pm

Y'all lost me on all that hoppin shit up, bending props and all that. Ill probly run mine stock.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:50 pm

jehler wrote:I'm not a fan of them
mines all custom shit and I need the cavitation plate to get up in shallow water because with out it my boat take forever to plane out because it's only 14 foot.if it was 16 or longer I wouldn't need it because the nose would be heavy enough to help pick the ass end up.the plate helps push the water down which picks the ass end up and keeping water in the prop so it doesn't blow out giving me lift and thrust so I can get up and get the hell out the soup
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Flightstopper » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:50 pm

jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?


As long as we aren't hopping our ass of the bottom I don't care how long it takes to get out of the hole.
AKPirate wrote:Jason is usually right but sometimes wrong
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