Duck rigs

Duck boats and duck boat blinds!

Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:51 pm

Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower


If I could afford a motor newer than twice as old as I am then I'd start looking for horsepower. As close as I've ever been to the big boys is my 15 and I'm shitting in high cotton in my book. I'm used to small motors in shallows, I can't even imagine rigging that 200 whatever on the barge.

The barge is a pig, i think I could move the motor 6" any direction and it wouldn't make a difference lol. Back in the Johnny boomerang days I sometimes had the opportunity to rig the same boat 4 or 5 times!
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:51 pm

I'm hunting water that's knee deep or shallower with lots a mud a weeds
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Flightstopper » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:52 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:Y'all lost me on all that hoppin shit up, bending props and all that. Ill probly run mine stock.


No bending, go to a good prop shop and they week let you pay with props. Cup grabs more water when your motor is high and had less water to grab, essentially.
AKPirate wrote:Jason is usually right but sometimes wrong
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:53 pm

hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:I'm not a fan of them
mines all custom shit and I need the cavitation plate to get up in shallow water because with out it my boat take forever to plane out because it's only 14 foot.if it was 16 or longer I wouldn't need it because the nose would be heavy enough to help pick the ass end up.the plate helps push the water down which picks the ass end up and keeping water in the prop so it doesn't blow out giving me lift and thrust so I can get up and get the hell out the soup
does the plate give you any trouble on turns? I have damn near been thrown from a boat when I was turning sharp and the plate caught some chop
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:56 pm

jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:57 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:Y'all lost me on all that hoppin shit up, bending props and all that. Ill probly run mine stock.
you don't need to hop urs up mines not but I'm telling you you won't regret a ss prop and jackplate
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby NuffDaddy » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:58 pm

hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:[quote="hudson"]Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44[/quote]
Why don't you run a surface drive?
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:59 pm

jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:I'm not a fan of them
mines all custom shit and I need the cavitation plate to get up in shallow water because with out it my boat take forever to plane out because it's only 14 foot.if it was 16 or longer I wouldn't need it because the nose would be heavy enough to help pick the ass end up.the plate helps push the water down which picks the ass end up and keeping water in the prop so it doesn't blow out giving me lift and thrust so I can get up and get the hell out the soup
does the plate give you any trouble on turns? I have damn near been thrown from a boat when I was turning sharp and the plate caught some chop
No no trouble out of mine or any bodies I know
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:00 pm

jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:I'm not a fan of them
mines all custom shit and I need the cavitation plate to get up in shallow water because with out it my boat take forever to plane out because it's only 14 foot.if it was 16 or longer I wouldn't need it because the nose would be heavy enough to help pick the ass end up.the plate helps push the water down which picks the ass end up and keeping water in the prop so it doesn't blow out giving me lift and thrust so I can get up and get the hell out the soup
does the plate give you any trouble on turns? I have damn near been thrown from a boat when I was turning sharp and the plate caught some chop
even been offshore a couple miles in it.stupid but i've been there
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:01 pm

NuffDaddy wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:[quote="FlintRiverFowler"][quote="hudson"]Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44[/quote]
Why don't you run a surface drive?[/quote]don't need it
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:02 pm

NuffDaddy wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:
hudson wrote:[quote="FlintRiverFowler"][quote="hudson"]Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44[/quote]
Why don't you run a surface drive?[/quote]and from what I've seen there not as reliable as my merc and there overpriced
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby jehler » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:03 pm

FlintRiverFowler wrote:Y'all lost me on all that hoppin shit up, bending props and all that. Ill probly run mine stock.
pitch of a prop is like the gear ratio kinda, a 12 pitch prop (without slip) will move you ahead 12" in one revolution, cup is the bend or cup shape of the prop, take is the angle of the blades in relation to the hub. You can play with that shit and get a prop that is tailored to one kind of running but usually comes with a lot of cons, a very slightly aft raked moderately cupped prop mounted a bit low is going to be the best bet for most utility kinda boating
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby NuffDaddy » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:03 pm

hudson wrote:
NuffDaddy wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
FlintRiverFowler wrote:[quote="hudson"][quote="FlintRiverFowler"][quote="hudson"]Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44[/quote]
Why don't you run a surface drive?[/quote]don't need it[/quote]
Oh. Just wondered. sounded to me like you had to do a lot of work to make an outboard work.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby NuffDaddy » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:04 pm

I'll agree an the overpriced. It's crazy what those go for...even used.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:08 pm

NuffDaddy wrote:
hudson wrote:
NuffDaddy wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:
jehler wrote:
Flightstopper wrote:
jehler wrote:
hudson wrote:[quote="FlintRiverFowler"][quote="hudson"][quote="FlintRiverFowler"][quote="hudson"]Ya its a 20 inch shaft.i wanted a 15 but hard to find new cuz they stopped makin em.bought that motor brand new in 2010 from my bil pops who had it in his barn.had steering wheel controls on it but I deleted that and put a tiller.motor had never been run still had factory plugs in it and not a scratch on the foot.but I have a 03 short shaft that was on it that wasn't much lower

You must just have a shorter transom then. I've got a 20 inch shaft and a 16.5 inch transom. I still think I need a few inches of lift for the motor bc it plows water out the sides.
what kind of motor

99 merc 15 4 stroke on a 1640 mod v. It'll push the hell out of it even with a heavy load.
haven't had to make the switch to 4 stroke yet.try jacking it up to where the tip of the nose cone is even with the bottom of boat and try a cavitation plate.if it's too high there just drop it by half inch increments till you got it where you want it.you can put some cup in your prop to help give you more thrust on take off. Prevents slippin.i run a 3 blade quicksilver 13 pitch with a decent amount of cup
tip of the nose cone to the bottom, hell no man, that isn't any good! You'll burn shit up! The flat plate above your prop is te cavitation plate, all outboards have them, that should be level to or an inch below the bottom of the hull for most running, I run mine an inch high but I made adjustments in prop and boat balance to compensate. Unless you have a raked prop and low water pick up having the nose come lined up with the hull is big trouble and horrible performance


Not if you have it set back.
true, but that gets to be black
Magic as far as rigging and hardly worth while until you get to big horsepower
If you want to run shallower water and pick up speed then it's worth it.
oh I get it, trust me I can't resist tinkering with boats and the rigging. Does the way yours is set up play hell on your hole shot?
i get the best hole shot I can out of that boat being 14.if it wasn't set up like this I couldn't go where I can and it helps that my mercury has the best water pump in on the market.thing will piss straight mud and never stop.its slow but a marsh machine.eventually I'll have me a 40 on a 17 44[/quote]
Why don't you run a surface drive?[/quote]don't need it[/quote]
Oh. Just wondered. sounded to me like you had to do a lot of work to make an outboard work.[/quote]It's really not complicated.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby hudson » Wed Feb 05, 2014 10:10 pm

NuffDaddy wrote:I'll agree an the overpriced. It's crazy what those go for...even used.
If I could afford one rigged out but I ain't pay in 10 to 15 grand for that.not when my 5 g setup goes almost everywhere they can.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby ea oneal » Sat Feb 15, 2014 2:43 pm

IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
got my new plate on back 1/4 inch plate and weld allway around . mount my troll motor to day and start my paint .hope to get pipe bent for my blind next week . it,s my plan to to be done and test all of it out ready to hunt loooonngg before season . want to do some work to trailer .new wench and a better hitch .
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby aunt betty » Fri Feb 21, 2014 4:04 pm

ea oneal wrote:
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
got my new plate on back 1/4 inch plate and weld allway around . mount my troll motor to day and start my paint .hope to get pipe bent for my blind next week . it,s my plan to to be done and test all of it out ready to hunt loooonngg before season . want to do some work to trailer .new wench and a better hitch .

It's creeping me out how much your boat is like mine. The lights...
I've heard that it's incredibly stupid to fuck around with a crazy man's head.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby ea oneal » Fri Feb 21, 2014 5:06 pm

aunt betty wrote:
ea oneal wrote:
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
got my new plate on back 1/4 inch plate and weld allway around . mount my troll motor to day and start my paint .hope to get pipe bent for my blind next week . it,s my plan to to be done and test all of it out ready to hunt loooonngg before season . want to do some work to trailer .new wench and a better hitch .

It's creeping me out how much your boat is like mine. The lights...

ya I saw that too. I have a 9.9 rude+the longtail .love my old boat. narrow,light easy to hide :thumbsup:
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby aunt betty » Sat Feb 22, 2014 4:17 pm

ea oneal wrote:
aunt betty wrote:
ea oneal wrote:
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
IMG_0330.JPG
got my new plate on back 1/4 inch plate and weld allway around . mount my troll motor to day and start my paint .hope to get pipe bent for my blind next week . it,s my plan to to be done and test all of it out ready to hunt loooonngg before season . want to do some work to trailer .new wench and a better hitch .

It's creeping me out how much your boat is like mine. The lights...

ya I saw that too. I have a 9.9 rude+the longtail .love my old boat. narrow,light easy to hide :thumbsup:

Shhh. The young guys with newer, larger, superior watercraft might get hurt feeling.
Our boats are both old pos's. ;)
I've heard that it's incredibly stupid to fuck around with a crazy man's head.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby ea oneal » Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:51 pm

ya but I don't mind adding a new dent to mine now and then ,hell kinda fun to tell the truth.got my troll motor and gun mount back on. now new paint and thinking about some pods for back .
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby 3legged_lab » Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:11 pm

Never regretted putting pods on my boat.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Olly » Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:17 pm

Me either on my old rig.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby ea oneal » Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:23 pm

what do you run mud motor or outboard .I run a 9.9 rude in some of the spots I hunt . but the long tail has seen the most use as of late and its heavy I overbuilt it .im just thinking pods might help
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Olly » Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:47 pm

ea oneal wrote:what do you run mud motor or outboard .I run a 9.9 rude in some of the spots I hunt . but the long tail has seen the most use as of late and its heavy I overbuilt it .im just thinking pods might help


I had a long tail on the boat I had with pods.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby 3legged_lab » Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:48 pm

uploadfromtaptalk1393649037258.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1393649333922.jpg
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby ea oneal » Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:01 am

3legged_lab wrote:
uploadfromtaptalk1393649037258.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1393649333922.jpg

nice set up .im looking at a small hp short shaft mud motor. I hunt a lot of timber holes so a narrow boat is the way to go I have buds with wider rigs and cant git to some spots but my long tail can be a pain in trees
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:17 am

3legged_lab wrote:
uploadfromtaptalk1393649037258.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1393649333922.jpg

Is that a weldbilt boat? I'm looking at getting one of their crawdad models.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby Olly » Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:37 am

Looks like an excel to me.
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Re: Duck rigs

Postby FlintRiverFowler » Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:29 am

Olly wrote:Looks like an excel to me.

Was goin off the T handle, it's what they have in the weldbilts too. I think they attach to the seat base holes. Pretty cool. 3leg has a nice lookin rig whatever brand it is.
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