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i'm building a Hybrid Square Nose SN layout boat and my question-is... i will need a 30 inch opening because i'm broad shouldered and i was concerned about having enough left to where i wont have to be worried about water coming over the top???? has anyone built these ???

Use a 1x8for the sides of the cockpit instead of a 1x6. You should be fine- I think mine is 28" wide, and I see no problem making it a little wider.

is that on the 8 footer?????

last question, in the plans when your gluing the transom and frame to the bottom of the boat it said use zip ties and glue....how do you do that..i was going to drill holes and use screws then when the glue dries, back the screws out and fill with either the construction glue that was recommended (or gorilla glue) or put epoxy in before i wrap the seams with fiberglass.

Man I really really need to build two of these bad boys. Nighthawk and I would be able to use them everywhere


Jim...how large would you recommend for a dog? 10'?


#tazincali

I'm building a 10' in the spring, yep.

To the OP, there's a couple threads on here with some pics. For the bulkhead and transom, I used 1 1/4 Sheetrock screws through the bottom, then pulled them and filled the holes before classing the bottom.

And yes, my boat is about 7' 6"

well i have everything done as far as my templats. I drew them all out to scale in AUTO CAD. Transom is done 8 inch sides at 45 degree angle and all other parts drawn out..lol

Stitching is a commen way of building layouts,and marsh boats of all kinds , I use kit string to put all the one's Ive built together.

what kind of fiberglass did u guys use,,Lows has bondo Fiberglas for 40 a gallon,,,and where did u get the sheets of cloth,,i can only find 3" wide tape....
i used the PL construction adhesive and that stuff is no joke..so will glassing over that stuff be OK?

Check out US Composites for your fiberglass needs.

I think someone had a cheaper route to go, but I know US Composites is the preferred supplier for hybrid builders.

i was wondering if bondo's brand was ok to use

I think that people have, but it's not recommended by the designer.

I think AT says something about it in his build thread if you can find it...

Use uscomposites.com, and get the cheap 6 oz cloth and the polyester resin, I think it's 430, or some number close to that. The cheap one. You'll want a couple rollers as well. I tried using paint rollers, but they soak up too much resin. I used 2 gallons of resin, and I don't remember how much cloth.

I may build a 10'er in the spring also.

#tazincali2014itsgonnahappen

You can use Bondo squeegees instead of rollers. Put down a thin coat of resin to hold the glass, then add a little resin on top of the glass and use the squeegee to work it out. A hairdryer helps to thin the resin, just don't get it too hot. You'll know when it is right, the glass will become clear instead of opaque.

Mix small amounts of resin at a time until you learn how it works, the larger mixes will have an exothermic reaction and waste resin.

I put my boats out in the sun and let them heat up prior to and glassing, this allows the pores of the wood to open and soak up a little resin, making it even stiffer. Just enough resin to wet the surface evenly prior to adding the glass, a helper holding one end up as you use a squeegee to work it down with no wrinkles works best, but you can start it down and place a small piece of PVC pipe under the glass, as you work it down by yourself, just move the PVC pipe away from you to help remove wrinkles.

I have been doing glassing and glass repair for close to 18yrs, and this method will use the least amount of resin and still work all of the air out.

A little tip, use 3-4 sets of examination gloves on top of each other, when one gets dirty, just pull it off and you have a clean glove and don't have to stop and change them out.