WaterfowlForum.Net

@outboardman.

Mid to late 70's evinrude 9.9/15.

Help me figure out which wire I need to use.
Turns out Arkansas has a law where u have to have the safety lanyard kill switch.
I bought one, tried gettin some help, and the "experts" I picked said use the yellow and black wire from the power pack.
It's not workin.
Can you help?

I'm lost.
Been fiddling with trying to figure this out for two days now.

E15 RCTR
EO 1999 77

I kind of need to know what I got so I can start figuring out where to start.

According to the numbers I got a 1934 engine? No way

I'm thinking the C is for 8 and the T and R are for 3 and 4
Must be a 1983 and a half?

Little stuff like this drives me crazy.

That motor is, I believe, a 1983.
Is there a kill switch wither on the tiller handle or on the front of the motor?
Can you extend off those wires>

Throbbin Rods wrote:That motor is, I believe, a 1983.
Is there a kill switch wither on the tiller handle or on the front of the motor?
Can you extend off those wires>

There was a kill switch on there years ago. It quit working.
I took it off so I could run wires to the new starter I put on. (converted a no-e-start)
When I got the switch off I tested it and it's fine.
Therefore something is wrong in the power pack. Grounding the "kill" wire don't work.

This means I need another power pack I think. Needed to know the year so I can order one.
They cost ~ $60.

It's a electronic ignition motor. I have power packs I saved from older models with points. (no good to me now)

I'd probably just hook it up and let them assume it worked................never seen a warden, marine police, state trooper actually test one, they are just looking to see if you have it hooked to you while under way.

Deltaman wrote:I'd probably just hook it up and let them assume it worked................never seen a warden, marine police, state trooper actually test one, they are just looking to see if you have it hooked to you while under way.

Yep, that's what I figured too. I'll pretend it works and be just fine.
If a wise-guy GW checks I'll say "it worked fine yesterday".

Just saw this now.

I've got a 74 with the only kill switch being the button on the front of the powerhead. If you need pictures or what not, get in touch. It's sitting in my garage right now.

Goldfish wrote:Just saw this now.

I've got a 74 with the only kill switch being the button on the front of the powerhead. If you need pictures or what not, get in touch. It's sitting in my garage right now.

I'd be willing to bet that the motor you have has points and a lot of BLUE wires.
I have two of those old ones that are without lowers and already looked.
The engine I'm working on has electronic ignition and is different starting with the power pack which is where the kill switch circuitry is located. On mine it has a "kill wire" (blacl/yellow).
I've got it wired correctly and it don't work. Thanks goldfish.


If your motor has a black wire with a yellow stripe coming out of the power pack, then I would like to see it.

You are correct, mine has points.

I know I am late to this party, sorry Betty. Yes the black w/yellow stripe wire is the kill and if you touch the blk/yellow from powerpack to ground it should stop. If it don't,and it can happen, you need a new powerpack. If you splice the kill switch into the blk/yellow,and other side of kill switch to ground it should work.

outboardman wrote:I know I am late to this party, sorry Betty. Yes the black w/yellow stripe wire is the kill and if you touch the blk/yellow from powerpack to ground it should stop. If it don't,and it can happen, you need a new powerpack. If you splice the kill switch into the blk/yellow,and other side of kill switch to ground it should work.

Thanks. I think I tried that. I'll look again real quick and get back with you. It's installed, dont work, but I've never seen a gw actually make sure it those kill switches function. They see the red cord on the wrist and it's aok.

There is black with yellow stripe and yellow with black stripe. I think I tried both. Right now it's connected to black with yellow stripe. This is my "spare" so it don't get used much. Sitting on a stand since I started this thread. Years ago the kill button quit working. I took it off, tested it, and the switch was fine. That's where I'm at.

Make sure the kill switch grounds the blk/yellow. Some kill switches are designed to open the circuit,like on a car it will remove the 12 volts to ignition. On a outboard it needs to close circuit, to ground blk/yellow.

outboardman wrote:Make sure the kill switch grounds the blk/yellow. Some kill switches are designed to open the circuit,like on a car it will remove the 12 volts to ignition. On a outboard it needs to close circuit, to ground blk/yellow.

I think we figured out that my power pack has an issue.
The switch I have has two sets of terminals. If it were backwards and everything worked it'd never start. I have it correct and it runs but won't kill the motor.

How much is a new power pack? Where would you order one? Give me a link please and walk me thru the part number and everything etc. please.

Reference # 10

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/E ... parts.html

AB, you might also try iboats.com as a possible source too.

$75 is affordable to get it going right. Save the funky one as a spare.