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I used to spend $10 for a tiny bottle of silicon waterproofing from Wolverine boots...
The smell of it was so familiar that I figured out what it is.
Its Thompson's water seal that's been put into a small bottle with a little dauber cap brush thing.
A GALLON is about $20 and will last your entire life.

aunt betty wrote:I used to spend $10 for a tiny bottle of silicon waterproofing from Wolverine boots...
The smell of it was so familiar that I figured out what it is.
Its Thompson's water seal that's been put into a small bottle with a little dauber cap brush thing.
A GALLON is about $20 and will last your entire life.

only 60$ for a five gallon bucket!

Damn, you are quick. I KNEW you would probably have figured out the same thing.
I read a tip in Fur-Fish-Game magazine years ago.

Waterproofing my boots. Going out to cut firewood in snow. The acidity in snow eats the waterproofing off.

I don't use it for any if my shit as I'm scared to put it on gore-tex, money on canvas ghoigh

Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

aunt betty wrote:Waterproofing my boots. Going out to cut firewood in snow. The acidity in snow eats the waterproofing off.

Da fuk kinda snow do you have if it eats the waterproofing???

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Thanks. Is it a one time application or will it need to be redone after every rain?

rozzo842 wrote:

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Thanks. Is it a one time application or will it need to be redone after every rain?

I do it yearly. You put 2-3 coats on when you do it and I like to spray it on thicker than what they suggest. Works really well for me.

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Think if I rub it on my weiner light STDs will run right off it?

Eric Haynes wrote:

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Think if I rub it on my weiner light STDs will run right off it?

Can't hurt.

Eric Haynes wrote:

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Think if I rub it on my weiner light STDs will run right off it?

Worth a try unless you have a silicone allergy. If you do then I would suggest against it.

The Duck Hammer wrote:

Eric Haynes wrote:

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Think if I rub it on my weiner light STDs will run right off it?

Worth a try unless you have a silicone allergy. If you do then I would suggest against it.

Unless you have an even higher "the clap" allergy, go for it.

3legged_lab wrote:

Eric Haynes wrote:

The Duck Hammer wrote:

rozzo842 wrote:Ever put it on clothes? I'd love to wayerproof my carhartt bibs

I use camp dry on all my Carhartt stuff. It's not gonna stop a downpour but light rain and such will run right off.

Think if I rub it on my weiner light STDs will run right off it?

Can't hurt.

Any worse than some good ole chlamydia...

obenauf's heavy duty LP or regular beeswax, i don't trust anything else to not eat away leather.

(MT)Montanafowler wrote:obenauf's heavy duty LP or regular beeswax, i don't trust anything else to not eat away leather.

Anything else?

Beeswax actually does eat away at tanned hides. The long chain alcohols in the beeswax dry the hides and causes them to become desiccated, which forever changes the structure of the leather, making it brittle and weak.

Eric Haynes wrote:

(MT)Montanafowler wrote:obenauf's heavy duty LP or regular beeswax, i don't trust anything else to not eat away leather.

Anything else?

Beeswax actually does eat away at tanned hides. The long chain alcohols in the beeswax dry the hides and causes them to become desiccated, which forever changes the structure of the leather, making it brittle and weak.

who told you this? i've never heard anything saying beeswax was bad for leather.

i only use the pure wax in the winter, obenauf's the rest of the year.

EDIT: after thinking about it, most anything would probably dry out leather. but if you're replacing the oils that would naturally occur if the animal was still alive you should be ok. the obenaufs has oils in it so capping it with pure wax shouldn't be a problem.

(MT)Montanafowler wrote:

Eric Haynes wrote:

(MT)Montanafowler wrote:obenauf's heavy duty LP or regular beeswax, i don't trust anything else to not eat away leather.

Anything else?

Beeswax actually does eat away at tanned hides. The long chain alcohols in the beeswax dry the hides and causes them to become desiccated, which forever changes the structure of the leather, making it brittle and weak.

who told you this? i've never heard anything saying beeswax was bad for leather.

i only use the pure wax in the winter, obenauf's the rest of the year.

EDIT: after thinking about it, most anything would probably dry out leather. but if you're replacing the oils that would naturally occur if the animal was still alive you should be ok. the obenaufs has oils in it so capping it with pure wax shouldn't be a problem.

It was pure bullshit that I made up from knowing what beeswax is composed of:lol::lol:

Goldfish wrote:

aunt betty wrote:Waterproofing my boots. Going out to cut firewood in snow. The acidity in snow eats the waterproofing off.

Da fuk kinda snow do you have if it eats the waterproofing???

The same kind that falls everywhere. pH as low as 5.5

It's not the acidity. It's the sharp edges on the ice crystals comprising the snowflakes. Like a million tiny knives wrecking your Red Wings.

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assateague wrote:It's not the acidity. It's the sharp edges on the ice crystals comprising the snowflakes. Like a million tiny knives wrecking your Red Wings.

Nope.

bill herian wrote:

Goldfish wrote:

aunt betty wrote:Waterproofing my boots. Going out to cut firewood in snow. The acidity in snow eats the waterproofing off.

Da fuk kinda snow do you have if it eats the waterproofing???

The same kind that falls everywhere. pH as low as 5.5

so water while frozen is different than water that isn't?

Goldfish wrote:so water while frozen is different than water that isn't?

I don't know, is water while not frozen not dissimilar to unthawed water in a camel's hump?

I can prattle obscurities too, Goldie. Your stepping into my dojo.

Fuck you, Cobra Kai.

Wax off, bitch.

I call that retort the leg sweep. There is no known counter for the leg sweep.

bill herian wrote:I call that retort the leg sweep. There is no known counter for the leg sweep.

Toe pinch.

bill herian wrote:I call that retort the leg sweep. There is no known counter for the leg sweep.

Bullshit. Crane technique.


Konichiwa, bitches.