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as im sure many of you know i have an old rem mod 11 . i did a camo job on it to use this season . the wood on it is junk so i found some that,s in pretty good shape . it has full checkering that,s nice ,but someone put poly on it . a lot of and it,s flaking in some spot.s. don't want to sand on it might lose the checkering and been told paint stripper will soften the wood and ruin the checkering has any one worked on something like this?

I usually just wait 15-20 minutes and it's good to go again.

Oysters and Uni are both good for the wood.

I would use paint stripper and a old toothbrush in the checkering. Rinse with water and let dry. When dry, chase the checkering with a single line tool.

who ever put this on must have just dipped this sucker. i put some paint stripper on one spot near butt and it just made it soft ,sort of .called the gun smith who we use and he think,s it might be what is called a bar top poly. if so this will be rough .i found a 28 in. full rib barrel in mod. and sent it for bluing. after season will send rest .i just was looking forward to stock n fore arm as an easy deal.want to do a sanded in coating .i have all the stuff to do that. the old stock is beat up and oil soaked bad .ah hell!!!!!

Good luck with that bar top poly, if that's what it is. I honestly think you could use a chemical stripper, and then just condition the wood when you're done with a sanding sealer or something.

think im fixing to learn how restore checkering . so after im done ill a set of tool,s to loan boy,s

Use the chemical stripper and an extra soft toothbrush. When that chemical stripper starts working, the finish just gums up, and should come right out of that checkering. And while the wood will get a little soft, a soft toothbrush won't mess it up in the least. Do it twice, and I bet you're good to go. Just don't use any "natural", "orange", or "organic" strippers. They don't work worth a damn.

called a guy in baton rouge who restore,s very old wood stuff and he will let me send my part,s to him . he has some water base solvent that will take it off with no damage .ill have to let it dry 2-3 week,s and in the forearm the small support rings will need to be glued back but hey 10 buck,s an shipping .hell yea!!!!!

Call the gun guy on discovery channel, isn't he in baton rouge?

redjacket , we used to call him for part,s but he got to big fer his britche,s as the saying goes .now he,s about to lose his ass and we don't give a rat,s butt. he made a deal with academy and did not make it.also he got so far behind on stuff for small time people with all the cop stuff and tv show crap . never forget who helped pay your bill,s you might need em

maybe a media blaster?

have one at shop iv used with all grit on wood ,it eat,s it .the paint or coating is harder than the wood . wish this was something i was able to do my self .but wood is hard to come by for a 11 .a5 won't fit right .if some one need,s stock,s for one i have a set dam nice. no checkering, but very good .i have 3 a5,s and 2 part,s gun,s so this wood is just xtra and i have a lot of xtra .

Aircraft paint stripper,you can get it at automotive stores. I've used it on walnut several times with no ill effects.

ohio mike wrote:Aircraft paint stripper,you can get it at automotive stores. I've used it on walnut several times with no ill effects.

This.

Once the old finish is off sand it down starting with 120 and work up. I like to finish with 0000 steel wool then put on the finish of your chosing