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I got my first coon today. I caught him in a mink box with a 120. Also got a mink.assateague wrote:Love catching them. Hate scraping em.
assateague wrote:I went down to the graders/shippers shed last week. He had some pretty good tips, the best of which was to use boards for coon, not stretchers. Looks like this off-season I'm gonna be making some boards. Then staple a piece of cardboard over the tail/butt instead of just stapling the hide. He assured me I'd get an extra 25% on the final grade if I did it this way. Also said to strip the ears of foxes like the tail. Said if I accidentally pull off an ear, it won't hurt the grade, but I'm having a tough time being ok with this one.
assateague wrote:I know. This guy is only a sorter, technically, but he's been employed by NAFA for about 35 years, so I trust what he says. The cardboard is to help get more grease out of the hindquarters (you'll be amazed how greasy a coon is), and help flatten the tail so it looks more appealing. I was not aware that even a little grease (even after dried) could make individual hairs slip, and lessen the value. So even if its good, buyers are going to cut you a little, because chances are good the hide may lose a half a grade by the time they process it. He also said wider hides were better than longer, which is contrary to everything ice been taught. He recommended 8" boards for coon, which is quite a bit wider than the 6" or so you get on a stretcher. I'd always been taught the "money cut" when skinning coons was necessary to get the extra length, but I'll try it his way next year.
assateague wrote:I'm going to get one 8 to use as a template, and cut the rest out of a sheet of 1/4 plywood. No way I'm paying $110 for a dozen boards.
assateague wrote:Use staples. I only use push pins for the ears on fox. I use a T-50 staple gun with 5/8" leg (flat, not chisel tip) staple. Split the crown of the staple with the edge of the hide (one leg in wood, one leg in hide. It should stay about 1/4" high, and they pull right out.
TrapperDev wrote:I split all the tails and nail them open, and wipe the skins down with a rag when they start to sweat grease I think than covering it with cardboard would work or it might hold the grease in and cause it to rot. I will try it though and let you know how it turns out.
assateague wrote::lol:![]()
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That is a big ass skunk. I was just reading an article yesterday about a guy who injects them with denatured alcohol, which makes them die without spraying. He rigged up a syringe from tractor supply on a piece of pvc pipe, and moves very slowly. He gets to within about 7 feet, sticks them, and has never been sprayed. Says they fall over dead in about 10 seconds of being stuck in the chest.
While possibly a good idea, I don't see me trying it.
TrapperDev wrote:The only reason I shot it was because it was in a leg hold but if I target skunk I use a cage trap wrapped up in cardboard with a bag over it so when you get one it can't see you pull the bag over it then you just spray a rag full of starting fluid throw it in there zip tie the bag and run. They don't spay but be careful taking them out because they might just be sleeping and you will get a big surprise.
Bootlipkiller wrote: all the mallards I killed today had boners do to my epic calling.
3legged_lab wrote:TrapperDev wrote:The only reason I shot it was because it was in a leg hold but if I target skunk I use a cage trap wrapped up in cardboard with a bag over it so when you get one it can't see you pull the bag over it then you just spray a rag full of starting fluid throw it in there zip tie the bag and run. They don't spay but be careful taking them out because they might just be sleeping and you will get a big surprise.:lol::lol::lol::lol:
I just pictured this whole thing happening with your dad sitting in the truck (windows rolled up) laughing.
Bootlipkiller wrote: all the mallards I killed today had boners do to my epic calling.
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