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Hey Quack (or anybody), you ever make your own cable snares? I've never put out more than a half dozen or so at a time, and always bought those. But this year, I decided to plaster the woods with them. I'm planning on putting out at least 50 at a time, and would like to get 75-100 running at all times. I finished making my earth anchors today (switching over to them entirely, this year), and tried a few snares.

It's extremely difficult to get them to load just right. I can either get a nice round circle which will only fire about half way shut, or a teardrop that won't fire at all. Any tips? I'm using 1x19 5/64 right now, but am probably going to switch to 1x19 1/16 when I get to the convention to pick up a roll of it. I had the 5/64 for the earth anchors, and planned to use that for snares so everything was uniform, but I don't like how "bulky" it is.

This could help.

@quackhead

@jehler

@trapperdev

Ive replaced a few after catches. Just cutting the hardware off and using new cable. Thats no problem, and you can buy all the parts, however, MI doesnt allow "loaded" snares so I cant help ya on that front.

The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?

It's what makes the loop take a nice circle shape.

Eric Haynes wrote:This could help.

@quackhead

@jehler

@trapperdev

Don't ask me! Jr doesn't have much experience with coyote snares, but he has been making some interesting earth anchors this summer

assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?

The cable I used was in a nice tight roll, so it formed a nice loop without having to run it over metal.
No springs or quick snaps allowed and deer stops, I guess too many houndsmen had dogs get caught in them. Understandable.

jehler wrote:

Eric Haynes wrote:This could help.

@quackhead

@jehler

@trapperdev

Don't ask me! Jr doesn't have much experience with coyote snares, but he has been making some interesting earth anchors this summer

I just put you in there because I know Jr was telling me about his snares

BrewGUN wrote:

assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?

The cable I used was in a nice tight roll, so it formed a nice loop without having to run it over metal.
No springs or quick snaps allowed and deer stops, I guess too many houndsmen had dogs get caught in them. Understandable.

Yep, but you still put more of a curve on the last 8" or so up to the lock, sharpening the natural curve. That acts like a little pop to get the lock moving down faster. If you take a brand new snare, and cut the lock and crimp off, you'll see it almost starts to form a spiral at the end. Getting that curve in there just right is a pain in the ass.

assateague wrote:

BrewGUN wrote:

assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?

The cable I used was in a nice tight roll, so it formed a nice loop without having to run it over metal.
No springs or quick snaps allowed and deer stops, I guess too many houndsmen had dogs get caught in them. Understandable.

Yep, but you still put more of a curve on the last 8" or so up to the lock, sharpening the natural curve. That acts like a little pop to get the lock moving down faster. If you take a brand new snare, and cut the lock and crimp off, you'll see it almost starts to form a spiral at the end. Getting that curve in there just right is a pain in the ass.

Hmm, didn't put that much thought into it. I rebuilt it, he ran through it, he got caught. Maybe luck?

Nah, I'm pretty sure they'll work just fine without it. But every little bit helps.

Jim,
I don't think he's building his own yet, snares that is.

Damn, was hoping for some advice. I know there must be a trick to it, and I can't believe getting that little extra curve just right is as difficult as it seems.

assateague wrote:Damn, was hoping for some advice. I know there must be a trick to it, and I can't believe getting that little extra curve just right is as difficult as it seems.

Weld it

I would go with 1/16 since it's mainly for coon and fox I'm assuming. 5/64 is what I'll be using for yotes. The 1x19 is harder to load. Just slam a nail in your work bench, lay the cable in your hand and find the natural curve then run it around that nail with tension. Check it after each pass so you don't over load it. You could put a gooseneck on it which will speed it up more.
If you go to trapperman.com and look in the trapping only, there is a good post on snare making. The poster is LT grey. He is a damn good snareman. And if you were a member he would help answer questions through pm's. Sometimes takes a while because he's pretty popular on there and gets lots of questions.
I need to get to making mine also.
Can you anchor to trees? I would build extensions and hang high. Not sure what your rules are. I'm guessing you may not be able to use entanglement? Are you using cams? Or are you using relaxing locks?

Don't forget to pickup a bunch of #9 wire for snare supports

I build snares all the time they work well on far fish