The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:Are you going to buy a jig or try and do it freehanded?
If I can get a polymer lower, I'll do it myself. That should put me around $500, finished.
EP said they were working on a polymer frame but it doesn't look like they figured that out yet. It doesn't look like its going to be easy to do a metal frame at all.
assateague wrote:This is the site for the polymer 80% frame. I suppose it may not actually be 180 days, but I suspect it would be close.
http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/rudius1911
Olly wrote: We're still the bastard pirates of the duck forum world.
assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:Are you going to buy a jig or try and do it freehanded?
If I can get a polymer lower, I'll do it myself. That should put me around $500, finished.
EP said they were working on a polymer frame but it doesn't look like they figured that out yet. It doesn't look like its going to be easy to do a metal frame at all.
i saw that, too, and I wish they would. I'm pleased with their AR lower.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
huntall6 wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:Are you going to buy a jig or try and do it freehanded?
If I can get a polymer lower, I'll do it myself. That should put me around $500, finished.
EP said they were working on a polymer frame but it doesn't look like they figured that out yet. It doesn't look like its going to be easy to do a metal frame at all.
i saw that, too, and I wish they would. I'm pleased with their AR lower.
why the heck would you want a poly lower?? if you mess it up, you are out a frame. if you mess a steel frame up, weld metal back on and start over.
Olly wrote: We're still the bastard pirates of the duck forum world.
huntall6 wrote:Ron, the point of getting this frame and building your own 1911 is that it technically will not exist. the 80% lower (frame) for a 1911 is no different than buying a piece of angle iron from menards. no. records. period.
huntall6 wrote:MT is right.
huntall6 wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:Are you going to buy a jig or try and do it freehanded?
If I can get a polymer lower, I'll do it myself. That should put me around $500, finished.
EP said they were working on a polymer frame but it doesn't look like they figured that out yet. It doesn't look like its going to be easy to do a metal frame at all.
i saw that, too, and I wish they would. I'm pleased with their AR lower.
why the heck would you want a poly lower?? if you mess it up, you are out a frame. if you mess a steel frame up, weld metal back on and start over.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:This is the site for the polymer 80% frame. I suppose it may not actually be 180 days, but I suspect it would be close.
http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/rudius1911
Interesting, says the upper part is steel so wouldn't you run into the same problems?
SEVERAL YEARS AGO we had a person of Arabic descent make threatening remarks on our Facebook page. We held a competition to see who could draw a nice picture of Muhammad in a "culturally embarrassing situation" and posted the winning picture on our Facebook page. This picture is not suitable for work (NSFW) and can be viewed on our website. If you would like to see the picture NSFW we posted, please click here.
huntall6 wrote:but if i were going the dremmel route, there would be a MUCH greater risk of an over cut (i dont have a mill). so if i fucked up a steel frame, out comes the welder to add material back. if i had fucked up a poly frame, i am out money.
aunt betty wrote:huntall6 wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:Are you going to buy a jig or try and do it freehanded?
If I can get a polymer lower, I'll do it myself. That should put me around $500, finished.
EP said they were working on a polymer frame but it doesn't look like they figured that out yet. It doesn't look like its going to be easy to do a metal frame at all.
i saw that, too, and I wish they would. I'm pleased with their AR lower.
why the heck would you want a poly lower?? if you mess it up, you are out a frame. if you mess a steel frame up, weld metal back on and start over.
Suppose you assemble the firearm that has no serial number and get caught carrying it in Champaign.
Do you think the police would assume you had a hot gun, had filed off the numbers, and charge you with a Class X Felony?
I mean, are you sure it's a good idea?
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
assateague wrote:huntall6 wrote:but if i were going the dremmel route, there would be a MUCH greater risk of an over cut (i dont have a mill). so if i fucked up a steel frame, out comes the welder to add material back. if i had fucked up a poly frame, i am out money.
Well, don't fuck it up, Sally.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
(MT)Montanafowler wrote:huntall6 wrote:Ron, the point of getting this frame and building your own 1911 is that it technically will not exist. the 80% lower (frame) for a 1911 is no different than buying a piece of angle iron from menards. no. records. period.
hey hunt, what's the difference in a series 70 and series 80 1911 versus the original design? i know that the 80 has a blockout sort of deal that makes it impossible for the hammer to accidentally hit the firing pin while the safety is engaged, but that's about it.
the reason i ask is that assa's link is pre series 70
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
assateague wrote:The Duck Hammer wrote:assateague wrote:This is the site for the polymer 80% frame. I suppose it may not actually be 180 days, but I suspect it would be close.
http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/rudius1911
Interesting, says the upper part is steel so wouldn't you run into the same problems?
I think they are referring to all the parts you put on it, so dumbasses don't think they're buying a completely plastic gun. I could be wrong, but watching their YouTube, it appears that the frame is 100% polymer, at least the parts you have to mill. Like a Glock.
And the fact that this is on their website makes me want to buy one from them even more:SEVERAL YEARS AGO we had a person of Arabic descent make threatening remarks on our Facebook page. We held a competition to see who could draw a nice picture of Muhammad in a "culturally embarrassing situation" and posted the winning picture on our Facebook page. This picture is not suitable for work (NSFW) and can be viewed on our website. If you would like to see the picture NSFW we posted, please click here.
I don't want Olly to have a Fatwa declared on him, so I'll hold off on the pic. It's not that good, really, but it is amusing that they did it in the first place.
Olly wrote: We're still the bastard pirates of the duck forum world.
huntall6 wrote:(MT)Montanafowler wrote:huntall6 wrote:Ron, the point of getting this frame and building your own 1911 is that it technically will not exist. the 80% lower (frame) for a 1911 is no different than buying a piece of angle iron from menards. no. records. period.
hey hunt, what's the difference in a series 70 and series 80 1911 versus the original design? i know that the 80 has a blockout sort of deal that makes it impossible for the hammer to accidentally hit the firing pin while the safety is engaged, but that's about it.
the reason i ask is that assa's link is pre series 70
hold on.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
huntall6 wrote:huntall6 wrote:(MT)Montanafowler wrote:huntall6 wrote:Ron, the point of getting this frame and building your own 1911 is that it technically will not exist. the 80% lower (frame) for a 1911 is no different than buying a piece of angle iron from menards. no. records. period.
hey hunt, what's the difference in a series 70 and series 80 1911 versus the original design? i know that the 80 has a blockout sort of deal that makes it impossible for the hammer to accidentally hit the firing pin while the safety is engaged, but that's about it.
the reason i ask is that assa's link is pre series 70
hold on.
70 on the left, 80 on the right. The little plunger goes into a groove in the firing pin when the safety is on, preventing it from moving shoul it get hit. It's a feel good measure that just means more parts to break. That said, I haven't had an issue with either of my series 80's.
huntall6 wrote:MT is right.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
huntall6 wrote:both of my 80's are 3" barrels so yeah, they have duel springs. they also dont have barrel bushings or the standard "motionless" (dont know if thats what its called) barrel. most of the feed ramp is on the barrel instead of being split between the frame and the barrel.
huntall6 wrote:MT is right.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
aunt betty wrote:Suppose you assemble the firearm that has no serial number and get caught carrying it in Champaign.
Do you think the police would assume you had a hot gun, had filed off the numbers, and charge you with a Class X Felony?
I mean, are you sure it's a good idea?
per provisions of the Gun Control Act (GCA) of 1968, 18 U.S.C. Chapter 44, an unlicensed individual may make a “firearm” as defined in the GCA for his own personal use, but not for sale or distribution.
The GCA, 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(3), defines the term “firearm” to include the following:
… (A) any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may be readily converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive: (B) the frame or receiver of any such weapon; (C) any firearm muffler or silencer; or (D) any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm.
Individuals manufacturing sporting-type firearms for their own use need not hold Federal Firearms Licenses (FFLs). However, we suggest that the manufacturer at least identify the firearm with a serial number as a safeguard in the event that the firearm is lost or stolen. Also, the firearm should be identified as required in 27 CFR 478.92 if it is sold or otherwise lawfully transferred in the future.
With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a non-licensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms. However, a person is prohibited from assembling a non-sporting semi-automatic rifle or non-sporting shotgun from imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machine gun will not be approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being made for a Federal or State agency.
[18 U.S.C. 922(o) and (r), 26 U.S.C. 5822, 27 CFR 478.39, 479.62 and 479.105]
assateague wrote:aunt betty wrote:Suppose you assemble the firearm that has no serial number and get caught carrying it in Champaign.
Do you think the police would assume you had a hot gun, had filed off the numbers, and charge you with a Class X Felony?
I mean, are you sure it's a good idea?
I don't give a damn what the city of Champaign says. They may charge me with whatever they want, but I'll get off, and then sue the city of Champaign. Because the ATF says that it's perfectly fine to build your own gun, serial number and FFL-free.per provisions of the Gun Control Act (GCA) of 1968, 18 U.S.C. Chapter 44, an unlicensed individual may make a “firearm” as defined in the GCA for his own personal use, but not for sale or distribution.
The GCA, 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(3), defines the term “firearm” to include the following:
… (A) any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may be readily converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive: (B) the frame or receiver of any such weapon; (C) any firearm muffler or silencer; or (D) any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm.
Individuals manufacturing sporting-type firearms for their own use need not hold Federal Firearms Licenses (FFLs). However, we suggest that the manufacturer at least identify the firearm with a serial number as a safeguard in the event that the firearm is lost or stolen. Also, the firearm should be identified as required in 27 CFR 478.92 if it is sold or otherwise lawfully transferred in the future.
With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a non-licensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms. However, a person is prohibited from assembling a non-sporting semi-automatic rifle or non-sporting shotgun from imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machine gun will not be approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being made for a Federal or State agency.
[18 U.S.C. 922(o) and (r), 26 U.S.C. 5822, 27 CFR 478.39, 479.62 and 479.105]
http://www.atf.gov/faq-page/316#t316n11091
huntall6 wrote:MT is right.
aunt betty wrote:assateague wrote:aunt betty wrote:Suppose you assemble the firearm that has no serial number and get caught carrying it in Champaign.
Do you think the police would assume you had a hot gun, had filed off the numbers, and charge you with a Class X Felony?
I mean, are you sure it's a good idea?
I don't give a damn what the city of Champaign says. They may charge me with whatever they want, but I'll get off, and then sue the city of Champaign. Because the ATF says that it's perfectly fine to build your own gun, serial number and FFL-free.per provisions of the Gun Control Act (GCA) of 1968, 18 U.S.C. Chapter 44, an unlicensed individual may make a “firearm” as defined in the GCA for his own personal use, but not for sale or distribution.
The GCA, 18 U.S.C. § 921(a)(3), defines the term “firearm” to include the following:
… (A) any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may be readily converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive: (B) the frame or receiver of any such weapon; (C) any firearm muffler or silencer; or (D) any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm.
Individuals manufacturing sporting-type firearms for their own use need not hold Federal Firearms Licenses (FFLs). However, we suggest that the manufacturer at least identify the firearm with a serial number as a safeguard in the event that the firearm is lost or stolen. Also, the firearm should be identified as required in 27 CFR 478.92 if it is sold or otherwise lawfully transferred in the future.
With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a non-licensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms. However, a person is prohibited from assembling a non-sporting semi-automatic rifle or non-sporting shotgun from imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machine gun will not be approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being made for a Federal or State agency.
[18 U.S.C. 922(o) and (r), 26 U.S.C. 5822, 27 CFR 478.39, 479.62 and 479.105]
http://www.atf.gov/faq-page/316#t316n11091
I'm no gun expert and laws are kind of fuzzy to me. Hehe
Gettin all wordy an shit...
I'm pretty sure removing the numbers is a no no.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
assateague wrote:Betty, removing numbers is a no-no. But not having any numbers in the first place place because you built it yourself is fine, as long as you don't sell it.
Redbeard wrote:Buy not when. I hit that damne pole
Feelin' Fowl wrote:Big dick cakes are delicious!
aunt betty wrote:I kind of wonder what's so special about building a gun that has no numbers?
I think I have a pretty good idea...to hide.
Now, how do you hide a gun from today's technology. You bury it, they'll find it, hide it in wall, they'll find it.
Where?
huntall6 wrote:MT is right.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 97 guests