AKPirate wrote:Jason is usually right but sometimes wrong
Flightstopper wrote:Get boot and everyone to shoot kents or federals and use their empties. If you can locate powder and primers locally you will save a good bit of money unless you order in bulk. Lbc 43 and multi metals make great 3" loads. Start by reading through some manuals. Status of steel is a good one as well as a couple others. Ballistic products and precision reloading sell most everything you need at good prices.
jehler wrote:What kind of shotty you shoot juice?
AKPirate wrote:The sins of Boot and Gaddy are causing the Cali drought and knowing they have no limits to their depravity... :mrgreen:
Bootlipkiller wrote:He can have my spent Kent's for a box or two of reloads.
Juice Box wrote:jehler wrote:What kind of shotty you shoot juice?
Browning Maxis and an 870
AKPirate wrote:Jason is usually right but sometimes wrong
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
AKPirate wrote:Jason is usually right but sometimes wrong
Flightstopper wrote:Sorry Chapman but I disagree with most of that. Your better off weighing each powder and shot charge by hand. Steel shot and powder are both said to not meter well in a press. Alliant Steel powder will do just about all your loads and just about the only powder people use in steel loads. Stick to published load data for all loads.
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
NuffDaddy wrote:I also recommend getting a digital scale and hand weigh your powder at minimum. I hand weigh my powder and shot because I could never get consistent drops from my cheapo press.
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
R. Chapman wrote:NuffDaddy wrote:I also recommend getting a digital scale and hand weigh your powder at minimum. I hand weigh my powder and shot because I could never get consistent drops from my cheapo press.
I was about to disagree with you because for a second I thought you were talking about rifle reloading. If thats your thing to weigh them on a digital, do you weigh on a beam as well to confirm?
negative on the shot bar, tons of recipes for all hulls except winchesters but Remington's vary the greatest in hull capacity from one lot to the next, I would avoid them till you proficientR. Chapman wrote:If your just planning on loading steel, you a need a steel shot bar (black color) from MEC. Next thing you should consider is picking on hull and sticking with it. My choice is a Remington hull though I only load for my trap shooting endeavor. If I were you I would also just stick with one powder but that's your choice as that's my preference. I only use two powders. Accurate Solo 1000 for trap shooting and Alliant Herco for Upland/Screwing around club porch loads. For shooting steel duck loads, my guess is you want some speed and wallop. Try using a medium/slow burning pistol/shotgun powder with a CCI 209 Magnum primer. I would stick with a powder/primer combo then mess around with wads finding which one throws the pattern you desire. That's my thought. BTW, the 600 jr. will outlast your grandsons life, that's a good press that will last forever.
a good digital is plenty accurate for anything short of making nuclear weaponsR. Chapman wrote:NuffDaddy wrote:I also recommend getting a digital scale and hand weigh your powder at minimum. I hand weigh my powder and shot because I could never get consistent drops from my cheapo press.
I was about to disagree with you because for a second I thought you were talking about rifle reloading. If thats your thing to weigh them on a digital, do you weigh on a beam as well to confirm?
alliant STEEL powder, which is by far the best for loading steel loads ie way to bulky to use a bushing, your drops will be all over the placeRonE wrote:I have loaded thousands and thousands of shot shells prior to the steel shot requirements. Chapmans trap load sounds about like what I used only with Winchester AA hulls. When the hulls were too burnt or started to split, I would load 1 3/8 oz of #5 chilled shot that had a mv of 1,330 and was killer for ducks and geese. The hulls were then thrown away. As for measuring every powder charge, Bull Shit! measure a few and then you have to trust your bushing or bar. Make sure that there is enough motion/shock so that the powder falls from the hopper pretty much the same with every movement of the bar. Never heard of steel shot not falling from the shot hopper in a reliable manner. RP Blue Magic hulls are pretty close to AA hulls and in most cases can be used interchangeably. Never had a MEC machine, started with a Texan shot shell loader and moved up to a Ponsness-Warren progressive. Could load a case (500) an hour with the help of another guy and a beer or two.
A persons time must be worth something and if you aren't shooting over 500 rounds a season, it probably isn't worth reloading, if you shoot quite a few more then you probably need a progressive reloader.
I can buy 500 shotgun shells (1 1/4 oz at 1400 fps) for less than $240 and get free shipping and no tax. Shells are easier to store from year to year than powder, shot, wads, primers and a bunch of reloading equipment.
jehler wrote:alliant STEEL powder, which is by far the best for loading steel loads ie way to bulky to use a bushing, your drops will be all over the placeRonE wrote:I have loaded thousands and thousands of shot shells prior to the steel shot requirements. Chapmans trap load sounds about like what I used only with Winchester AA hulls. When the hulls were too burnt or started to split, I would load 1 3/8 oz of #5 chilled shot that had a mv of 1,330 and was killer for ducks and geese. The hulls were then thrown away. As for measuring every powder charge, Bull Shit! measure a few and then you have to trust your bushing or bar. Make sure that there is enough motion/shock so that the powder falls from the hopper pretty much the same with every movement of the bar. Never heard of steel shot not falling from the shot hopper in a reliable manner. RP Blue Magic hulls are pretty close to AA hulls and in most cases can be used interchangeably. Never had a MEC machine, started with a Texan shot shell loader and moved up to a Ponsness-Warren progressive. Could load a case (500) an hour with the help of another guy and a beer or two.
A persons time must be worth something and if you aren't shooting over 500 rounds a season, it probably isn't worth reloading, if you shoot quite a few more then you probably need a progressive reloader.
I can buy 500 shotgun shells (1 1/4 oz at 1400 fps) for less than $240 and get free shipping and no tax. Shells are easier to store from year to year than powder, shot, wads, primers and a bunch of reloading equipment.
there are a few decent powders you can throw drops with, but honestly it's hardly worth it, I have managed to get my pw to drop steel 2's and under with not factory brass bushings but for the most part dropping shot is as Erratic as steel powder. With a chargmaster automatic scale you can load pretty fast, brew and my son kicked out almost 600 rounds in an afternoon before the superior huntRonE wrote:jehler wrote:alliant STEEL powder, which is by far the best for loading steel loads ie way to bulky to use a bushing, your drops will be all over the placeRonE wrote:I have loaded thousands and thousands of shot shells prior to the steel shot requirements. Chapmans trap load sounds about like what I used only with Winchester AA hulls. When the hulls were too burnt or started to split, I would load 1 3/8 oz of #5 chilled shot that had a mv of 1,330 and was killer for ducks and geese. The hulls were then thrown away. As for measuring every powder charge, Bull Shit! measure a few and then you have to trust your bushing or bar. Make sure that there is enough motion/shock so that the powder falls from the hopper pretty much the same with every movement of the bar. Never heard of steel shot not falling from the shot hopper in a reliable manner. RP Blue Magic hulls are pretty close to AA hulls and in most cases can be used interchangeably. Never had a MEC machine, started with a Texan shot shell loader and moved up to a Ponsness-Warren progressive. Could load a case (500) an hour with the help of another guy and a beer or two.
A persons time must be worth something and if you aren't shooting over 500 rounds a season, it probably isn't worth reloading, if you shoot quite a few more then you probably need a progressive reloader.
I can buy 500 shotgun shells (1 1/4 oz at 1400 fps) for less than $240 and get free shipping and no tax. Shells are easier to store from year to year than powder, shot, wads, primers and a bunch of reloading equipment.
I certainly do not have the experience with steel shot to be able to argue with you. I will bow to your superior knowledge. I no longer run "roll you owns", I buy and run "ready made's".
jehler wrote:a good digital is plenty accurate for anything short of making nuclear weaponsR. Chapman wrote:NuffDaddy wrote:I also recommend getting a digital scale and hand weigh your powder at minimum. I hand weigh my powder and shot because I could never get consistent drops from my cheapo press.
I was about to disagree with you because for a second I thought you were talking about rifle reloading. If thats your thing to weigh them on a digital, do you weigh on a beam as well to confirm?
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
jehler wrote:negative on the shot bar, tons of recipes for all hulls except winchesters but Remington's vary the greatest in hull capacity from one lot to the next, I would avoid them till you proficientR. Chapman wrote:If your just planning on loading steel, you a need a steel shot bar (black color) from MEC. Next thing you should consider is picking on hull and sticking with it. My choice is a Remington hull though I only load for my trap shooting endeavor. If I were you I would also just stick with one powder but that's your choice as that's my preference. I only use two powders. Accurate Solo 1000 for trap shooting and Alliant Herco for Upland/Screwing around club porch loads. For shooting steel duck loads, my guess is you want some speed and wallop. Try using a medium/slow burning pistol/shotgun powder with a CCI 209 Magnum primer. I would stick with a powder/primer combo then mess around with wads finding which one throws the pattern you desire. That's my thought. BTW, the 600 jr. will outlast your grandsons life, that's a good press that will last forever.
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
i don't use Remington's at all, I know cannon does, think he may even have some photographic proof of what I'm talking about, maybe he'll chime in, I mainly load cheddite and fiochi, and I but all new hulls, I don't reload anything unless I run out of newR. Chapman wrote:jehler wrote:negative on the shot bar, tons of recipes for all hulls except winchesters but Remington's vary the greatest in hull capacity from one lot to the next, I would avoid them till you proficientR. Chapman wrote:If your just planning on loading steel, you a need a steel shot bar (black color) from MEC. Next thing you should consider is picking on hull and sticking with it. My choice is a Remington hull though I only load for my trap shooting endeavor. If I were you I would also just stick with one powder but that's your choice as that's my preference. I only use two powders. Accurate Solo 1000 for trap shooting and Alliant Herco for Upland/Screwing around club porch loads. For shooting steel duck loads, my guess is you want some speed and wallop. Try using a medium/slow burning pistol/shotgun powder with a CCI 209 Magnum primer. I would stick with a powder/primer combo then mess around with wads finding which one throws the pattern you desire. That's my thought. BTW, the 600 jr. will outlast your grandsons life, that's a good press that will last forever.
What Remingtons are you using? Gun Club and STS hulls have the same capacity/volume. From what I can tell, the Nitro Steel hulls and Sportsman's Hulls have the same volume as well. Not 100% sure on the HyperSonics.
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
R. Chapman wrote:Do you mean once-fired? And those two hulls are some of the best out of all the Euro-Trash hulls out there.
assateague wrote:Sometimes the quickest way to put out a fire is with an explosion.
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