Eric Haynes wrote:This could help.
@quackhead
@jehler
@trapperdev
assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?
jehler wrote:Eric Haynes wrote:This could help.
@quackhead
@jehler
@trapperdev
Don't ask me! Jr doesn't have much experience with coyote snares, but he has been making some interesting earth anchors this summer
BrewGUN wrote:assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?
The cable I used was in a nice tight roll, so it formed a nice loop without having to run it over metal.
No springs or quick snaps allowed and deer stops, I guess too many houndsmen had dogs get caught in them. Understandable.
assateague wrote:BrewGUN wrote:assateague wrote:The "loaded" only refers to getting the proper curve in the cable, not a spring or anything. You run it over a piece of metal before building to get the lock end to curl a little more. You guys aren't allowed to do that?
The cable I used was in a nice tight roll, so it formed a nice loop without having to run it over metal.
No springs or quick snaps allowed and deer stops, I guess too many houndsmen had dogs get caught in them. Understandable.
Yep, but you still put more of a curve on the last 8" or so up to the lock, sharpening the natural curve. That acts like a little pop to get the lock moving down faster. If you take a brand new snare, and cut the lock and crimp off, you'll see it almost starts to form a spiral at the end. Getting that curve in there just right is a pain in the ass.
assateague wrote:Damn, was hoping for some advice. I know there must be a trick to it, and I can't believe getting that little extra curve just right is as difficult as it seems.
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